Cutting MTL Sectional Track

We have a few places where we need to cut our MTL sectional track. The cuts will be on straight sections. Chris has already made a cutting jig and we have ultra-fine rasps to smooth off any burrs from the cutting process. But we have a few questions about cutting it and attaching the cut sections to each other correctly...

- what tool or saw do you use to cut the sections?

- do you place the track rail side up or down when making the cuts?

- once the track has been cut and the burrs removed, do you use rail joiners to connect the track before soldering it? (Chris has experience soldering MTL flex track as well as experience soldering tiny Z electrical wires.)

- how do you glue the plastic piece under the rail together, and do you use AC glue?

- do you glue the plastic together first or solder the rails first?


Those are all of my questions so far. Any other tips and advice are most welcome

Beverly,

Have a read over here at Ztrains.com:

www.ztrains.com/basics/plans/notch/notch.html

This should help.

John
www.ztrains.com

Also this: zcentralstation.com/index.php?option=com_joomgallery&func=detail&id=56&Itemid=53
I posted this shortly after MTL introduced this track. On the underside of the track are some holes. By cutting directly through the middle of the holes you will cut down the middle of the ties on top. This is very easy process. Essentially you are taking a piece out of the middle of the track to shorten it. This allows you to keep the plastic joiners at the end. I don't know how I figured this out, but I needed to 'make it fit' and after staring at the problem, I got it on the first try. Cheers, Jim CCRR:)

Beverly56 wrote:

We have a few places where we need to cut our MTL sectional track. The cuts will be on straight sections. Chris has already made a cutting jig and we have ultra-fine rasps to smooth off any burrs from the cutting process. But we have a few questions about cutting it and attaching the cut sections to each other correctly...

- what tool or saw do you use to cut the sections?

- do you place the track rail side up or down when making the cuts?

- once the track has been cut and the burrs removed, do you use rail joiners to connect the track before soldering it? (Chris has experience soldering MTL flex track as well as experience soldering tiny Z electrical wires.)

- how do you glue the plastic piece under the rail together, and do you use AC glue?

- do you glue the plastic together first or solder the rails first?


Those are all of my questions so far. Any other tips and advice are most welcome

When I shorten a piece of MTL Micro Track I try and make it so that it still has the proper ends on it so it will snap together properly. So I make two cuts and make sure the two ends that are going to be joined are smooth and parallel. Then there are two ways to join the pieces. What I prefer to do is to go under the track and use a piece of grey plastruct material and glue it under the road bed across the joint and sometimes you have to remove a rib first to do this. Then I clamp and hold it while the plastic cement sets up. After the glue has set I solder the two pieces of track on each side together and use a file to ensure there is a smooth joint on top and inside.
The other way is use a small chisel and cut the first two ties under the rail and remove the tie pieces from under the rail, then press a rail joiner into place. I still use the plastic strip under the roadbed when I glue the two sections together. The rail joiners are use instead of soldering the track at the joint. Removing the piece of tie under the rail allows the rail joiner to slide in without distorting the rail.

For a saw I use an Atlas snap saw or a jewelers saw and a miter box from exacto to make my cuts and then dress them with a fine file. Be careful using the file as you can rip the track out of the roadbed if it is too course or your pressure to high.

cheerz Garth

Socalz44 wrote:

Also this: zcentralstation.com/index.php?option=com_joomgallery&func=detail&id=56&Itemid=53
I posted this shortly after MTL introduced this track. On the underside of the track are some holes. By cutting directly through the middle of the holes you will cut down the middle of the ties on top. This is very easy process. Essentially you are taking a piece out of the middle of the track to shorten it. This allows you to keep the plastic joiners at the end. I don't know how I figured this out, but I needed to 'make it fit' and after staring at the problem, I got it on the first try. Cheers, Jim CCRR:)

Hi Jim;

I'll have to remember that method as it is better than what I have been doing as you don't have to join the rail just shorten it. I think I would still re-enforce the joine in the roadbed from below though.

cheerz Garth

Hi Garth, I just use CA glue and have never had any issues. If your track is ultimately laid on a hard surface I can't imagine any difficulties. Also, I always ballast the outside of the plastic ballast so that provides more than enough strength.Cheers, Jim CCRR:)

Beverly, To specifically answer your questions. For a saw I use and Exacto saw for the plastic roadbed. The metal is soft and to get a clean cut you will probably touch the bottom of the rails. No problem. To make the cuts you put the rails down. There is NO soldering involved or rail joiners involved. You are missing the point here. Once you have made your sawcut you also have to make a second saw cut and take out the section of ballast from the middle of the cuts. You make the cuts near the little ball bead and cut the bead off and slide the ballast section down the naked rail to the other saw cut. This leaves you with the plastic joiniery section for contecting to the next ballast piece. You will have to use snippers to cut the rail after all the sawing, sliding together, and gluing (CA) is finished. Cutting last allows your rails to be snipped off at the end of the plastic ballast correctly. Got it? Cheers, Jim CCRR:)

John, Jim and Garth,

Thank you so much for your guidance and tutorials. I understand exactly what to do. No soldering at all. Cut in the middle of the track and keep the ends of the track intact so they join like they normally would. I'll pass this thread along to dear husband Chris whose job it will be to cut the track If he doesn't already have the tools, he can buy them tomorrow

Beverly, I use Zuron orange handled nippers from the LHS. Cheers, Jim CCRR:)

being a wood artist, i m going through my days on a scrollsaw,,they are the most versatile tools in anyones arsonal!!! i can cut the tinyest pieces, no bigger than a head of a pin, cut all materials,,theres nothing i havent cut, even glass can be cut. i ve used my scrollsaw for cutting all my track, you can even trim the ties to perfection. if you own a scrollsaw,, try it. i use my tinyiest proxxan unit for cutting the track, but you can use any sized unit,i have one up to 60 inches!!!, use a no 1 blade and no pressure, just let it cut itself. then i usually switch to a no3 blade for the plastic sections, it leaves a nicer cut. never need to file afterwards, its a very clean cut. canada mike

Socalz44 wrote:

Beverly, I use Zuron orange handled nippers from the LHS. Cheers, Jim CCRR:)

Flush cutters are indispensable. They cut the rail cleanly, leaving the end flat. The only caution about this tool is to never cut anything harder than brass, nickel or copper. If you try to cut steel, it will ruin them.

There are many makers of flush cutters. If your LHS doesn't have them, you can usually find them in the bigger craft stores, in the jewelry-making section. Even Target and Walmart might have them.

www.target.com/gp/detail.html/192-6433570-3789216?asin=B0016845YM

In my Michael's, it appears the Exacto tool sets are now sold by Revell, the plastic model maker. Can be a good use for a 40% off coupon. They also make & sell the boy scout Pinewood Derby model car kits.