2-8-2 final Mikado prototype

To those modelers interested in the 2-8-2 Mikado shell

We are publishing photos of our corrected 2-8-2 Mikado Rapid Prototype. We feel this model is acceptable (please note the workings inside the model).

The modeler has three opportunities for critical design input;

1. Accurate fit;

1. Removing the Chassis' light deflector tab under the front light so that the FULL Steam Box Door will not interfere with the fit. (see attached illustrations).

2. Access to the powered chassis;

We are struggling with this decision, and ask for comments to be sent to harbormaster@searails.com/subject line
a. We could bore through the Steam Dome to provide access to the threaded shaft to receive the connecting screw, but we feel this approach would ruin the looks of the dome.

b. Alternatively, since the Steam Pipes are in full contact with the Piston Housing, the modeler could glue their contact surfaces together with a temporary adhesive. (see attachment)

3. Front handrails

We can only cast the handrails in pewter as part of the complete part if we include a very thin (0.01") support to eliminate an undercut. Would you be willing to use a #11 blade to remove this "flash"? (see attachment)

What are your opinions? Please respond at your earliest convenience.


Jim

PS - pewter spin casting will be performed by Baker Art next week - we'll keep you informed.

It looks great Jim.

About the screw. You could put a small dimple there, either inside or on top of the dome. This way any one who wanted to use it could use the dimple as a drill pilot. Pewter is sort and east to drill.

I say leave the hand rails off. They aren't on the prototype or the drawings. If they are wanted, .006 wire should be used.

Just my thoughts.

Thanks
Chris

Hi Jim, Maybe it is just the photo but the whole shell seems to be riding a bit high. Am I wrong? Cheers, Jim CCRR:unsure:

Socalz44 wrote:

Hi Jim, Maybe it is just the photo but the whole shell seems to be riding a bit high. Am I wrong? Cheers, Jim CCRR:unsure:

I feel the same way Jim. I feel there needs to be a notch where the valve gear hanger is attached and if necessary the fire box front edge be adjusted to clear rear driver and the steam pipe removed between the running board and the steam chest. The engine looks unbalanced at present to me. I think could seriously turn off those who want steam in Z.

cheerz Garth

Here are some photos

Guess I do not know how to do multiple photos in one posting
here is the other one

I totally agree with Jim, the shell is setting much to high. As I see it the drop in the running boards at the smoke box is another hang up, because it rests on the cylinders I don't see it going any lower.

Tim

Hi Jim, I got to examine your shell carefully at the train show in Portola this weekend, and I do like it. It's got a very nice look, and if the painted finish ends up smooth, will look great. HOWEVER...

I really think that the shell needs to be finely sanded before sending out to make the castings.

The RP master has banding lines from the printing process that needs to be carefully and painstakingly sanded smooth, so the painted finish will be smooth like the Marklin shell is.

I would like to have seen the shell made without any details attached, like bell, stack, piping, domes, etc. That way sanding the masters would have been an easy task, and placement of the bell, domes, stack, etc could be adjusted to our favorite prototype better, but it is what it is. Anyways, we as modelers really want a very smooth finish.

I don't want to hurt your feelings, I really don't, but I have to say... If I was presented with the choice of your shell with it's accurate dimensions but a gritty finish, or the bogus Marklin shell with it's finely polished finish, I would stick with the Marklin one, because I don't want to spend 10 hours per shell sanding them.

Please spend the time making the master you send for casting smooth first. Use your camera in super macro mode to take pictures of the model before calling it smooth enough, and examine for any signs of grit that needs attention.

-Robert Ray

Friends, Searails is aware of the concern with smoothness. Robert you saw a beta shell which will not me the look of the final product. Cheers, Jim CCRR:)

That's great news, because the shell looked real good otherwise! Since we had it for 2 days at the show, I got to look it over very carefully, and it is a fine looking design! I would even use it on the 4-6-2 Pacific!

-Robert

Hi,
We're at the final stages of development for the 2-8-2 Mikado engine shell, (hope you saw the preliminary pewter casting) and are trying to solve the dimensional, and tender-to-loco connection and the tender's coupler connection to fit all other following cars, both existing mfgr's freight and passenger, and future SEARAILS PULLMAN heavyweights.
So, for the moment, we're going to "stick our head in the sand". We'll read everything - that's one of the ways we learn!. But, don't get worried if we don't reply to the forum, Larry, Kat and Scott are trying real hard to "get it right", and we have a lot of good advisors.
Regarding extra details; almost every piece on the loco will be offered later in the project as either cast pewter or cast resin. From the headlamp to the whistle, and all the side stuff. We know there are specific pieces desired, and HAVE established a "wish list" before we publish a catalog. ( 0018309.netsolhost.com/railroaddetails/detailpartscatalog.html ) But, we don't want to get buried in research, so if you want something specific you will have to provide a dimensioned reference. The Kalmbach library is a good source, and so are many other train forums and sites.
Stay tuned - we're almost there!
Jim

yes,, i think it sits way to high myself as well,, tho it is easy to fix. you will have to recast it again, after some heavy sanding,, its pitted way to deep for just a good polishing on a heavy polisher. if i were you, i d deepen the inside about 1/32nd, and 3/32nds on the inside top,, the unit should drop right in. use the existing screw hole for the marklin 2 8 2, after a good polishing you d never see the screw. its going to be a god seller, once you get these problems fixed,, im already ready to order one, i have a 2 8 2 without shell just waiting for something like this. good luk!! canada mike:)

Photo of the first production castings is attached .
Will solve flashing problem and release in Jan.

Persons have requested production of both steam and diesel engine parts for "bashing".

Cannot produce and maintain a multi-parts catalog without a minimum order of $35.00.
Most individual parts would cost between (MSRP) $5-10 each in resin, or 7 part minimum.
Would this be satisfactory?
If so, what parts would you like to see produced?
Please go to to the Railroad Details - Detail Parts Catalog at
SEARAILS Museum Quality Scale Models
to enter your preferences.

Also, on our home page there is a Christmas day ONLY special (12/25-12/26) on our first entry into MOW, a Z scale Sanding Tower. Pricing will increase on 12/27.

Merry Holidays!
Jim, Larry, KAT, and Scot

Searails is getting down to the nitty gritty now and should have the pewter Mikado shells out in a couple of months. I just found out that there are only 28 confirmed orders for these shells. Searails need around 60 orders just to make up for R & D. No profit. If you are interested get on their website and place an order. Many of us have more than one Marklin 2-8-2 generic Mikado around and this is a chance to enhance you loco line up whether you run steam or not. Once these are for general sale you know the price will go up so get 'em while they are reasonable now if your interested. Cheers, Jim CCRR:)

The early pictures showed an initial mounting of the RP shell to the chassis and I thought after discussion it was being lowered on the chassis to a prototypical height but I do not see any pictures to confirm this.

I am one who is still reluctant to put in my order over this height issue. I want to invest but really need to see a complete pilot model with tender even if it is in RP plastic to be sure I will get something I am happy with.

I just finished a Pennzee K4 streamlined pewter shell conversion of a pacific and I know who much better these engines perform with the heavier shell on them so I am eager to purchase if it is right in my eyes. The streamlined K4 Pacific shell sits right down to the top of the drivers as in the prototype so I am well pleased with it.

cheerz Garth

I'm very interrested in seeing the new Japanese Mike's chassis. If this is matching with Marklin's, I bet one of these chassis with Searail's shell could have a terrific aspect! For me it should be a reason to go to non-AZL steamers.

Dom

dominique wrote:

I'm very interrested in seeing the new Japanese Mike's chassis. If this is matching with Marklin's, I bet one of these chassis with Searail's shell could have a terrific aspect! For me it should be a reason to go to non-AZL steamers.

Dom

Sorry Dom but the Japanese Mikado is shorter in wheel base than the American Mikado it is more in line with the 2-8-2Tank engine. The drivers are smaller also.

Robert has posted some pictures on trainboard showing both engines side by side.

cheerz Garth.

Garth I've no memory of this picture.... Can you give a link, please?

Dom