Micronart's girder bridge

Hi folks, although I'm working very slowly I wanted to share a few shots with you, showing the Micronart's girder bridges I slightly modified.

Indeed what amazes me as an european are US style bridges without any handrails (and indeed it's logical as if a 180-ton loco derails a handrail will be of no help to prevent it from falling down.... ).

So both my bridges have received a few modifications, regarding the track that runs on.

First I put my MTL on them but I didn't yet realize that in the prototype ties are to be far closer than on standard track.

So I stuck a few tie parts between each tie in order to have a close tie laying feeling.


I tried to do the same with the second bridge, but unfortunately I obtained a wrong result, with ties stacked on two levels... Very unprototypical.

So I removed the matching track section, took another MTL flextrack set, cut all the tie links and closed ties together. Then I replaced the missing track section with it.



Furthermore on every bridge I glued 2 code 55 rails as guardrails.

Dom

As I wasn't able to insert shots of my first bridge I try again.



Dom

And finally my first bridge from its side. One can sees the tie parts I added are not exactly to the same height, but I consider it's not as awful as one can imagine...



Dom

Dom, The joys of kitbashing??? What I did with my MTL flex track was to cut out the tie joiners on the underneath side of the track. (sharp #11 exacto blade) then I push the ties together. On another piece of flex track I slid the rails off the ties and pushed the ties onto the modified MTL flex track. Then started over cutting the tie joiners away and pushing the ties together again. Finally, you end up with 'bridge track' all even and attached to the rails. Make sense? Cheers, Jim CCRR:)

Yes Jim it makes sense, I guess we solved the same problem following the same way. Please could you put here a few pics so we can compare?

Dom

Dom, Here is poor job of making bridge track. This is in the back of the layout and no one can see it expecially with the wooden sideboards along the track. You will notice I didn't space the ties together properly. Don't tell anyone! Cheers, Jim CCRR:laugh:

The easy way:


Lajos:)

Same here. Clip out the webbing between the ties, and slide the ties together. (And also remove the ties with nail holes.)



My bridge was about as long as the flex, so I had to add more ties from a "sacraficial" piece of track.





The finished bridge...

Hey Dom, the bridges look very good. Jim and David's technique is well tried and true, and has worked well for many of us.

On the gaurd rails in the center... If you have problems with the trip pins on the MTL couplers snagging the ends, consider switch out to code 40 rail. It is not quite as tall as code 55, and will give a bit mor clearance.

Tony B..
Wasatch Z ClubB)

Thank you for the replies guys! And congratulations for the work, there are awesome pictures!

A few remarks:

-First, although I was expressing it differently, on my second bridge I followed the same way: cutting the tie links underneath in order to close the ties together. Actually I should have done it for both bridges prior to laying track but unfortunately I'm not a great planner...

-About guardrails: I must admit I've been very tempted to use code 40 rails, but I don't know if in the prototype guardrails are smaller than matching rails... But it won't be an issue for trip pins as the guardrails I glued on the bridges are the same code / heigth than MTL's rails. So the issue is the same as when a train has to proceed on a turnout. The diverging outer rail is obviously the same heigth than both rails the train is running on.

So if there is an issue, it's due to trip pins that need to be properly set.

Dom

dominique wrote:

I must admit I've been very tempted to use code 40 rails, but I don't know if in the prototype guardrails are smaller than matching rails... But it won't be an issue for trip pins as the guardrails I glued on the bridges are the same code / heigth than MTL's rails. So the issue is the same as when a train has to proceed on a turnout. The diverging outer rail is obviously the same heigth than both rails the train is running on.

So if there is an issue, it's due to trip pins that need to be properly set.

Guardrails on real bridges are sometimes a lighter rail, and sometimes the same rail (usually the latter for heavy Class I mainlines).

Here are lighter guardrails:

www.johnweeks.com/bridges/rrpics/carver01.jpg

www.photographyblogger.net/wp-content/uploads/2009/05/railroad-tracks5.jpg

www.cis.edu.pk/chinioti/Rail-Road-Bridge-In-Side.jpg

www.planetware.com/i/photo/cooperstown-ny154.jpg

rookery2.viary.com/storagev12/757500/757675_b626_625x1000.jpg

And here they are the same weight:

www.whitecountyar.org/JudsoniaRailroadBridge.jpg

www.purswell.com/Rail-Road-Bridge-optz.jpg

www.historicwoolenmills.org/blogimg/002-1260-0010_railroad_brid.jpg

www.lauraleighphoto.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2009/04/rr3.jpg

(Note that sometimes rail of the same weight looks lighter next to the running rails, but this is an illusion created by the fact that the guardrails have no tie plates, and so they'll sit lower.)

And some don't have any:

gallery.usgs.gov/images/05_01_2009/kOFr37Uhh0_05_01_2009/medium/RG0027.jpg

www.historicbridges.org/other/imlayrr1/IMG_0225.JPG

cdn.wn.com/o25/ph//2009/02/13/c5d79d018f6b42db51a7400307088cda-grande.jpg

One nice aspect of using lighter guardrails is that you can paint them, and the paint is less likely to be removed when cleaning the running rails.

Very interresting statements. Thank you David, I learnt something today.

Dom

Wonderful pictures David. Can I simple use the rails from another piece of track to make guard rails? I assume I have to bend the ends towards the middle and file the ends on a downward slant. What I don't know is the proper spacing from the existing rails. I assume CA glue would hold them in place. Any feedback would be appreciated. Thanks.

TerryH wrote:

Wonderful pictures David. Can I simple use the rails from another piece of track to make guard rails? I assume I have to bend the ends towards the middle and file the ends on a downward slant. What I don't know is the proper spacing from the existing rails. I assume CA glue would hold them in place. Any feedback would be appreciated. Thanks.

I was able to reduce waste by using the rails from the piece of flex I stole the extra ties from. I'm not sure there is a "proper" spacing; I suspect it was dictated by railroads on an individual basis, since the spacing varies--check out the prototype images in my prior post.

Guardrail end treatment varies as well. Some railroads just angle them in, with the ends nearly touching or, in some cases, bent downward and bolted together. Bigger railroads use a cast iron part that attaches to the guardrail ends and is bolted or spiked to the ties, and forms a rounded V-shape.

CA works OK, but because the ties are engineering plastic (like Delrin), the bond is not rock-solid. So, for best results, the guard rails must be as straight as possible before bonding in place. Apply a thin bead of CA to the bottom of the rail and carefully drop into position. After the CA fully cures, paint the rails and ties; this will also hide any visible excess CA.

Terry, I always put guardrails on my bridges. They look cool. On the other hand David's photos showed examples of no guardrails. My thoughts about this are to do what makes you happy. If you want to expend the time and effort for these then go ahead. If your layout is going to be seen by non-modelers then who cares if you have them or not? They won't know the difference. Same with bridge track. Most of my bridges just use standard MTL flex. As for guard rails themselves: 1. Spacing between the mainline should be just larger than the wheel flanges. You don't what wheels rubbing on the guardrails. 2. If you use regular Code 55 rail you will have some issues. First, you will have to leave the ends open to accomodate the brass uncoupling mechanism on the MTL couplers. I think Marklins will touch also. Second, many steamers will rub on the tops of the guardrails. Not good. If Code 40 rail is used you will not have the above issues. CA glue is what I use. Cheers, Jim CCRR:)

David, thanks for the pointers. I remember back 50 years ago in my HO days, they had rerailers, which I found to be a God send. I often thought of trying to make some and use as road crossings. That is what jumped into my head when I seen the guardrails. I will try my hand at it, nothing ventured, nothing gained. Thanks.

Jim, where does one purchase code 40 rail? I'm new to this stuff and just starting to learn the ins and outs. Your cautions are well noted and will be taken under consideration. Thanks.

Socalz44 wrote:

First, you will have to leave the ends open to accomodate the brass uncoupling mechanism on the MTL couplers. I think Marklins will touch also. Second, many steamers will rub on the tops of the guardrails. Not good. If Code 40 rail is used you will not have the above issues. CA glue is what I use. Cheers, Jim CCRR:)

If the Micro-Trains coupler pins touch the guard rails, then they need to be adjusted. If they touch guardrails, then they may also touch parts of turnouts, grade crossings, etc. Spec is, IIRC, .010 above railhead, but that's from memory. Best to check the source.

As for any parts of locomotives touching the guardrails, then that's another matter, but still not the fault of the guardrails. Again, if anything contacts the guardrails, then they'll contact other stuff.

Terry, Don't be confused about guardrails. They are not supposed to function as rerailers in our model world. Generally a shout out asking for Code 40 will get a response. Guardrails were supposed to make sure a train didn't derail on bridges. I'm not sure it was ever proven to work. Maybe why guardrails are seldom added to bridges these days. Lastly, if you can't get Code 40 rail there is another way. With a good vice and a Dremel tool you can grind off the bottom flanges on Code 55 rail. This is tedious, but it has worked for me. Cheers, Jim CCRR:)

Jim, I know they are not rerailers, but seeing them reminded me of the old HO scale rerailers. I actually made one for Z scale. I tapered all four edges of a flat for a crossing area and channeled along the outside of the rails, It kind of worked. Maybe now that my skills have improved a bit, I'll have another go at it. This time I'll also taper the ends into the outsides of the track to try and force the trucks back up to the rails. I also considered grinding the bottom of the rails as you suggested. I'll have to pick up a piece of rolling stock with MTL couplers, hopefully a conversion car from Loren. Thanks for the feedback.

Thanks David. I'm still new at this and I don't know where to find the specs or even which specs to follow. It would be very much appreciated if you could make a list of URLs where a newbie could go to learn about the basic specs, etc. If you don't have the time that is OK. Thanks again for your help.