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Changing Couplers

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11 years 6 months ago #15589 by southernnscale
Changing Couplers was created by southernnscale
I had a set of BethGon II coalporters Set #3 As you can see in the picture the truck on the left is after I took the AZL Couplr out. The one on the right is where I drilled a #62 (.038" dia.) hole then cut it flush with the truck>

Next I Put Z&Nn3 Scale short Shank Body Mount couplers assembled 903 couplers which you see in the second picture.

So far so good! I thought. then I put them on the track and hooked coupled them up to my GP-35 and them make a run. Guess what happened next? They ran fine as the train ran around until they went up hill. then on the way down one or two disconnected between them selves from the GP-35's. Now the big question what did I do wrong? How can I fix the problem?
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11 years 6 months ago #15590 by Mr.JA
Replied by Mr.JA on topic Re: Changing Couplers
Walt... Did you include the metal spring from the MTL coupler?
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11 years 6 months ago #15591 by garthah
Replied by garthah on topic Re: Changing Couplers
You need a Micro trains coupler height gauge to chick the height and I can say from body mounting allot of 905's that the front edge of the 905 pocket has to bein line with care ege so in this case the pocket of the AZL bottom edge to screwed it to and the coupler screw has to snug but not tight as the coupler will not move freely in the 905 box. lastly is the top of the 905 screw touching the under body of the car as that will cause the coupler to be pulled one way or the other on curves when returning to the straight.

regards Garth

cheerz Garth
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11 years 6 months ago - 11 years 6 months ago #15595 by southernnscale
Replied by southernnscale on topic Re: Changing Couplers
Mr. Ja. I used the Z & Nn3 scale short shank Body mount couplers 903 It was all together as a unit I just had to drill hole and screw it together in place where I removed the old caseing.




Thanks,
Walt
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11 years 6 months ago #15598 by garthah
Replied by garthah on topic Re: Changing Couplers
In the picture the coupler on the right is bent down to wards the track. while it appears to be coupled okay any stress to pull them apart, such as a long string of cars on a grade or curve will cause one to ride up out of the jaw of the other separating the cars. The left hand 903/905 appears to be more level, but appears to be pitched down a little bit. Could be something under the 903/905 box at back of pocket that is holding the coupler box up at the rear pitching front down towards the track, or the stress of cutting AZL box off of the platform has pitched them down so coupler is not held in position horizontal to track. replace these with micro trains trucks with couplers and take a picture, should show the difference. Unless you are going to be using the uncoupling feature of the Micro Trains coupler why change out the AZL auto-latch as it has proven very reliable in operation, in my experience.

regards Garth

cheerz Garth
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11 years 6 months ago #15601 by southernnscale
Replied by southernnscale on topic Re: Changing Couplers
I can see what your saying! I'll remove the coupler and sand the back edge down and see if it's bent from removing the old casing. and try again if that it that's great.

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11 years 6 months ago #15660 by southernnscale
Replied by southernnscale on topic Re: Changing Couplers
garthah, I took each one of the trucks apart and sanding the top Back edge where the coupler had been cut off. This made them set level. I then ran them on the track again. They were ran about 10 times around the track At slow speed and fast speed with out uncoupling.

Thanks for the advice!
Walt southernnscale

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11 years 6 months ago #15661 by garthah
Replied by garthah on topic Re: Changing Couplers
with a good cook proof is in the resulting pudding

Glad that solved you problem Walt.

continued good railroading in Z it is X thing to be sure

regards Garth

cheerz Garth

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