Mr. Whites Layout (ZWZRR)

Here are the first photos of track, this is kind of tenative right now but I like the look of it. I really wanted to go over and under, but its just going to be too hard (on the trains) to do. I am going to have a grade on the back track that will rise it 1 inch and lower the inside track on the back side 1 inch to create view blocks it should also give a feeling of a town in the foothills thats a stop before going through a mountain pass. (I'm still working all the terrain out in my head. You'll have to use a lot of imagination to get it. The front is the part with the switch and the feeder track. The back is the part with the little s curve.

Zac, Nice. What is the layout size again? Cheers, Jim CCRR:)

Zac,

We haven't made anything but a micro pizza layout, so please take my comments with a grain of salt Having said that, I'd make the base larger to accommodate more scenery around the track. I think the area around the outside of the track is where some of the buildings, stands of trees, elevated mountain terrain, etc. can go. Maybe you plan to add more base so you can have extra room for the scenery.

Now that we have a 2' x 8' sheet of insulation foam in the kitchen as well as a small oval track for size approximation on the foam, we can better see where we want space for various scenic details. In some places, I think I'm going to want 4"-6" from the edge for hills and other elevated terrain.

yeah I built the base with the 2x3 ft board before measuring the track. I think I'm going to lay 1 or2 inch foam on top of it And make that come out 3 inches off the board then I can position more scnery around the layout I could always take out the 2 straight sections and lose 6 inches that way too. Well see when I can start piecing together terrain

Zac

Zac, That looks exactly like the starting point of some of my projects-- The board- not the trackwork. Just a suggestion, Have at least a two inch base of foam, prior to laying track. This allows you to build BELOW track level such as a bridge over a river, or the hills move up to meet the track, and continues above track level for a tunnel further on down the track. I would also extend the sides so you can scenic outside of the track. Two reasons, 1. It looks better.. especially if the train passes stationary objects such as trees- a bulilding, or a bunch of rocks. 2. It might stop the trains crashing to the floor in a derailment..
I'd put a facia board all around the layout up to the level and to the contour of the foam. It adds strenght, hides the joints of foam and wood, and you can scenic right out to the edge. Trees "planted" in wood protects those planted in foam that are inboard. If you really want to have a dramatic effect, you can also cut BELOW your plywood base--WITH PROPER BRACING--and glue 2" foam underneath for carving. Not sure if this will be on legs- the above will work, or set on a table- FORGETABOUTIT- well it might fit.
I really haven't followed this thread so I may be jumping in the middle.
Hope this helps and does not add to the muddlement.
Fred

Zac, Fred beat me to it. He is very correct about building 'below' track level. If you put 2" of foam on top you will be able to have an 1.5" deep water course, stream, dry bed, whatever. This will allow bridges and because you went below track level gives your layout a non-toy railroad kind of feeling. Cheers, Jim CCRR:)

I planned for two inches of foam I just haven't bought it yet. There is going to be gradients toward the back and some sort of water feature. I just wanted to get my layout down to see how it looks. I think I am going to remove the straight pieces on the short sides of the outer track to add more room for scenicking. This will make the outer loop cross the inner one for a short time. I think I'm going to draw it out and post it with features to make it easier to see. I'm planning for a tunnel accessible from the back for cleaning and a tresle type bridge around the mountain that the tunnel goes through.

Zac
Pardon my typing as I am on the I phone again.

Jim,
If you have photos of how you've made your layout bases, perhaps you could post them here for Zac to see

Zac,
Now if you really want to get confused, here's a thread started by ULie about his German method of making a base.

I still haven't decided how to do the base for the large layout we're hoping to work on this summer. There are good ideas in both the American and German methods. Maybe I'll figure out a way to marry the two methods into something that looks and works well for the type of layout we want - though I have no idea what that is at the moment

Beverly and Zac, I did a quick check and I thought I would post this photo of a 10"x19" diorama I made. This photo shows all the steps before plaster cloth. You can see the hills and below track cutouts. I,ll look for more later---wedding aniversary today! Cheers, Jim CCRR:)

Congrats on the anniversary

Congratulations Jim. Surely, being a committed model railroader and staying married is a remarkable achievement!

Well done so far Zac. With layout space beng at a premium it's always a temptation to go close to the edges to fit in as much trackage as possible. Mind you, if you're into European-themed layouts that's often regarded as an acceptable trade-off.

Zac,
Looking good man!!! That should make a nice layout. Just a sugestion before you get your track down and regret it later.

Cut a piece or two of pink or blue insulation foam and put it down over the plywood, then put down your track. This way if you want to have senery that is "below" track elevation, you can cut down into the foam. This works great on edges to pull the landscape down and not look so flat. The other advantage is it makes your mountains look better because they dont just rise from a single level elevation.

Keep up the great work, and keep up all posted.

Tony B..
Wasatch Z ClubB)

Wow i just posted the abovecomments and Fred and Jim alread got you covered. So there you go Zac, solid advice when you get it three times in tem minuets..LOL

Tony B...
Over and OutB)

Hello Beverly,
Hello Zac,

While looking at Zacs first picture I came to think of a detail:

While I used Maerklin track Zac uses MTL track. The difference is that MTL already has a roadbed, while I have to create this with the cork underneath. Theoretically I could have used MTL without the need for the cork, but then I would have a bigger problem with sound issues. The noise generated from the rolling stock on the tracks would be increased by the wood, and the cork reduces this a lot. When you take the MTL track without the cork the noise won't be reduced. I believe that this is not a (big?) problem if you use a foam base under the tracks.

Beverly56 wrote:

a way to marry the two methods

setting the noise issue at the side, I've seen this married method already. Then you would create the track areas like I did, but for the mountains or hills you would not take the ripmethod but stack foam blocks and form them for the landscape. We might use this way to create the landscape in the inner loop at the right side:


..we're not that far yet (even if we are somewhat longer, I just don't have a current picture available at the moment), but we won't let the area be as flat as it is now.

There's another point to think about:

How do you reach out for any rolling stock that derailed in a tunnel. Either you can lift up the top of the hill above, or you can reach in from the side or from below...

...been there, done that and got the bend fingers...

Hello Zac. you have gotten a lot of good advice and ideas. I am dealing with the same issues myself. I want to maintain as much internal space as possible but also want space around the edges to add structures and scenery. Just a thought, you may want to consider adding a few inches to the length and width if space allows. That way you can slope hills down into the track and/or add structures around the outside of the tracks without having to shorten them. If space is really an issue then you may have to shorten the track. Don't worry too much about it, it will all work out as you go along. I have changed my layout at least ten times and decided I'll just wing it as I go along. Happy Z-ing and good luck.

Thanks for all the ideas Heres where I am now, I am stopping by lowes or home depot to get some foam tonight. I am going to do a 1 inch foam base the tracks will be on 1 inch risers and the back track will rise 1 inch while the inside track falls one inch to give a 2 inch clearance as the outside track barely goes over the inside one in the back. I will have roughly 2" on each outside and 3 to 4 inches in front with 2 inches in back that will be covered by mountains probablly with a wood and cardboard frame covered with plaster cloth. Any water features/ ravines will go through the risers and the 1 inch foam for depth. I might put a swithc inside the center which is going to be the town area. I may even change scenery with height to create the illusion of a steeper grade, but that is a ways down the road.
Beverly: The sound hasn't been that much of a problem even running straight on the board and it gets even less up the risers. (I had to try it out )

-_Zac

Here is where I am at now... I have the three layers and will be working on the tunnel soon.

Zac,

That's looking good I've seen those risers at the hobby store. Now that I see them on your layout, I'm going to see if there is a need for them on our layout when the time comes.

Just wait until you get cork under your track. Sound will be minimal.