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Coupler Conversion
- Pig Gap
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10 years 1 month ago #17495
by Pig Gap
Coupler Conversion was created by Pig Gap
I've check the board and found the discussion on converting the Marklin caboose but nothing on "standard" freight car. How east is it to change out the truck & couplers on Marlkin freight cars?
Thanks
Thanks
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- markm
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10 years 1 month ago #17496
by markm
Replied by markm on topic Coupler Conversion
Looking at the discussion started by MrJA, it generally applies to all Marklin cars: remove the trucks, create new bolster pin holes and attach new trucks. Details vary by car type. I've used the spine kits from Zelatory for the caboose, tank car and tender and have been very satisfied with the results.
Mark
Mark
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- garthah
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10 years 1 month ago #17497
by garthah
this is how I convert Marklin cars whose truck mounting hole doe not match the location required by my replacement truck
the ever green plastic bar stock is 3/16 x 1/4 and I am using the 3/16 width for the hold for the bolster pin, the bolster is shaped dropping in height from center to outer edge and glued to car floor.
cheerz Garth
Replied by garthah on topic Coupler Conversion
this is how I convert Marklin cars whose truck mounting hole doe not match the location required by my replacement truck
the ever green plastic bar stock is 3/16 x 1/4 and I am using the 3/16 width for the hold for the bolster pin, the bolster is shaped dropping in height from center to outer edge and glued to car floor.
cheerz Garth
The following user(s) said Thank You: southernnscale
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- garthah
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10 years 1 month ago #17498
by garthah
cheerz Garth
Replied by garthah on topic Coupler Conversion
This method I use when exiting hole in car body can be used for mounting the new truck.
I find a piece of plastic rod or sprue material from some kit I have assembled and want a press fit into the old truck mounting hole.I cut a piece about 3/8th of an inch long and press it into the car floor opening until it is protruding about an 1/8 of an inch, then check the clearance height between coupler and truck under the car, by putting truck on track resting stud on the truck. then I cement with liquids styrene cement into floor of car and let set over night. The reason for letting it set over night is I will drill and tap for 0-80 brass screw and the torque will tear the stud out if it has not set up properly. Once I have done both ends I go back and check my heights between truck and car and if necessary file down stud at either end until it is right.
I find a piece of plastic rod or sprue material from some kit I have assembled and want a press fit into the old truck mounting hole.I cut a piece about 3/8th of an inch long and press it into the car floor opening until it is protruding about an 1/8 of an inch, then check the clearance height between coupler and truck under the car, by putting truck on track resting stud on the truck. then I cement with liquids styrene cement into floor of car and let set over night. The reason for letting it set over night is I will drill and tap for 0-80 brass screw and the torque will tear the stud out if it has not set up properly. Once I have done both ends I go back and check my heights between truck and car and if necessary file down stud at either end until it is right.
cheerz Garth
The following user(s) said Thank You: southernnscale, Mr.JA, Pig Gap
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