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2-8-2 final Mikado prototype
- searails
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We are publishing photos of our corrected 2-8-2 Mikado Rapid Prototype. We feel this model is acceptable (please note the workings inside the model).
The modeler has three opportunities for critical design input;
1. Accurate fit;
1. Removing the Chassis' light deflector tab under the front light so that the FULL Steam Box Door will not interfere with the fit. (see attached illustrations).
2. Access to the powered chassis;
We are struggling with this decision, and ask for comments to be sent to harbormaster@searails.com/subject line
a. We could bore through the Steam Dome to provide access to the threaded shaft to receive the connecting screw, but we feel this approach would ruin the looks of the dome.
b. Alternatively, since the Steam Pipes are in full contact with the Piston Housing, the modeler could glue their contact surfaces together with a temporary adhesive. (see attachment)
3. Front handrails
We can only cast the handrails in pewter as part of the complete part if we include a very thin (0.01") support to eliminate an undercut. Would you be willing to use a #11 blade to remove this "flash"? (see attachment)
What are your opinions? Please respond at your earliest convenience.
Jim
PS - pewter spin casting will be performed by Baker Art next week - we'll keep you informed.
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- Chris333
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About the screw. You could put a small dimple there, either inside or on top of the dome. This way any one who wanted to use it could use the dimple as a drill pilot. Pewter is sort and east to drill.
I say leave the hand rails off. They aren't on the prototype or the drawings. If they are wanted, .006 wire should be used.
Just my thoughts.
Thanks
Chris
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- Socalz44
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- garthah
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Hi Jim, Maybe it is just the photo but the whole shell seems to be riding a bit high. Am I wrong? Cheers, Jim CCRR:unsure:
I feel the same way Jim. I feel there needs to be a notch where the valve gear hanger is attached and if necessary the fire box front edge be adjusted to clear rear driver and the steam pipe removed between the running board and the steam chest. The engine looks unbalanced at present to me. I think could seriously turn off those who want steam in Z.
cheerz Garth
cheerz Garth
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- garthah
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- garthah
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cheerz Garth
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- TIMX
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Tim
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- RRAY
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I really think that the shell needs to be finely sanded before sending out to make the castings.
The RP master has banding lines from the printing process that needs to be carefully and painstakingly sanded smooth, so the painted finish will be smooth like the Marklin shell is.
I would like to have seen the shell made without any details attached, like bell, stack, piping, domes, etc. That way sanding the masters would have been an easy task, and placement of the bell, domes, stack, etc could be adjusted to our favorite prototype better, but it is what it is. Anyways, we as modelers really want a very smooth finish.
I don't want to hurt your feelings, I really don't, but I have to say... If I was presented with the choice of your shell with it's accurate dimensions but a gritty finish, or the bogus Marklin shell with it's finely polished finish, I would stick with the Marklin one, because I don't want to spend 10 hours per shell sanding them.
Please spend the time making the master you send for casting smooth first. Use your camera in super macro mode to take pictures of the model before calling it smooth enough, and examine for any signs of grit that needs attention.
-Robert Ray
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- Socalz44
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- RRAY
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-Robert
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- searails
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We're at the final stages of development for the 2-8-2 Mikado engine shell, (hope you saw the preliminary pewter casting) and are trying to solve the dimensional, and tender-to-loco connection and the tender's coupler connection to fit all other following cars, both existing mfgr's freight and passenger, and future SEARAILS PULLMAN heavyweights.
So, for the moment, we're going to "stick our head in the sand". We'll read everything - that's one of the ways we learn!. But, don't get worried if we don't reply to the forum, Larry, Kat and Scott are trying real hard to "get it right", and we have a lot of good advisors.
Regarding extra details; almost every piece on the loco will be offered later in the project as either cast pewter or cast resin. From the headlamp to the whistle, and all the side stuff. We know there are specific pieces desired, and HAVE established a "wish list" before we publish a catalog. ( 0018309.netsolhost.com/railroaddetails/detailpartscatalog.html ) But, we don't want to get buried in research, so if you want something specific you will have to provide a dimensioned reference. The Kalmbach library is a good source, and so are many other train forums and sites.
Stay tuned - we're almost there!
Jim
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- liltoot
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- searails
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Will solve flashing problem and release in Jan.
Persons have requested production of both steam and diesel engine parts for "bashing".
Cannot produce and maintain a multi-parts catalog without a minimum order of $35.00.
Most individual parts would cost between (MSRP) $5-10 each in resin, or 7 part minimum.
Would this be satisfactory?
If so, what parts would you like to see produced?
Please go to to the Railroad Details - Detail Parts Catalog at
SEARAILS Museum Quality Scale Models
to enter your preferences.
Also, on our home page there is a Christmas day ONLY special (12/25-12/26) on our first entry into MOW, a Z scale Sanding Tower. Pricing will increase on 12/27.
Merry Holidays!
Jim, Larry, KAT, and Scot
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- Socalz44
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- garthah
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I am one who is still reluctant to put in my order over this height issue. I want to invest but really need to see a complete pilot model with tender even if it is in RP plastic to be sure I will get something I am happy with.
I just finished a Pennzee K4 streamlined pewter shell conversion of a pacific and I know who much better these engines perform with the heavier shell on them so I am eager to purchase if it is right in my eyes. The streamlined K4 Pacific shell sits right down to the top of the drivers as in the prototype so I am well pleased with it.
cheerz Garth
cheerz Garth
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- dominique
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Dom
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- garthah
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I'm very interrested in seeing the new Japanese Mike's chassis. If this is matching with Marklin's, I bet one of these chassis with Searail's shell could have a terrific aspect! For me it should be a reason to go to non-AZL steamers.
Dom
Sorry Dom but the Japanese Mikado is shorter in wheel base than the American Mikado it is more in line with the 2-8-2Tank engine. The drivers are smaller also.
Robert has posted some pictures on trainboard showing both engines side by side.
cheerz Garth.
cheerz Garth
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- dominique
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Dom
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