Running in Z can be costly....

I stopped in my favorite train store in Pa. today to look around. Of course they do not stock anything in Z Scale - But have a fair amount of N. I was checking some of the prices on prebuilt Houses and I had to laugh - they were more costly than the prebuilt O Scale stuff in the next room. In fact most of their Accessories in N where more costly than their O Scale stuff.
I guess I see why so many folks Scratch Build in Z - Cost and Availability.
But I really dig these little Trains.
Another newbie Question - Say I want to add 6 House lights to my Layout - Can I get the power off of my Marklin Transformer? And if so what voltage lights should I buy. Thanks Ken

Ken,
There is actually quite a selection of structure kits available in Z from people like GCLaser, RSLaser, Micron Art, Microstructures and Stonebridge, to name a few that I've built. All the kits are reasonably priced and from my experience easy to assemble. There are even people who will build the kits for you for a small fee.
I think a lot of the scratch built and kit bashed Structures you see here are a result of people who like the challenge of building small or, as in my case, to match a prototype.
As to the lighting question, the Marklin transformer should be able to handle six low wattage 12v lights without a problem. My major concern in lighting Z structures is heat. I would suggest looking into grain-of-wheat bulbs or LEDs for lighting. Both require a series resistor (typically 1-2 kohm) for safe operation, but they minimize the amount of heat in the structure.

Mark

Thank you Mark - That's the info I needed. Ken

Mythotto, Up front Z seems more expensive. However, take a look at this from outside the box. You need less space, you can shove a Z layout under the bed or stand it up in the closet. You can carry it out and store it in the garage. Because of Z scale's size you can more in the same space than the other scales. If space is an issue then, to me, Z becomes cheaper. As for kits, I have modeled in Z, N, HO now and I scratch build in all the scales. In fact I scratch in HO much more than Z and most HO products have been filling voids for 60 years. So do some searching there is much available Z, it just sounds like you haven't found it yet. Jim

Not to mention scenery, you just need a fraction of the ground foam for trees and ground cover!!

Zac

Zac and Jim --- I totally agree with the space advantages - In fact that was the whole reason I got back into Z - After running O for a number of years. My wife and I now live in a smaller home with no basement. And my wife was tired of seeing my trains on the Dining room table (They are still on the dining room table but now can be picked up and moved in seconds). And I also agree if you look around you can find some decent prices on Z Gear - I was using my local Train shop as a example - But I have seen much better prices for items online as of recent. Thanks for the support --- Ken

Hello again. As to your lighting of your buildings and other places where you might want to light up.
I use a Bachmann Transformer that I bought at my local hobby shop. They don't cost very much. I'm
talking about the transformer that comes with the little cheap train sets that you see around
christmas for around thirty dollars. HO OR N scale. You should be able to get the transformer for
even less than that. you might find one on Ebay for around ten dollars. But are taking a chance.
This will give you more control over your lighting. you also wont be taking any power from your
engines. I hope this helps you. Have fun and good luck.

Yes you can use the accessory 16vac source on your marklin power pack. I would suggest that you do not want to use incandescent bulbs as they create too much heat in such a small space as a Z scale building. Use LEDs and you need to include a ballast resistor with the LED as they run on less than 12vac. The ballast resistor does not reduce the voltage but rather limits the current to a safe limit for the LED attached to it. If you attached LED in series you need a different ballast resistor for the group, but it you loose one LED the whole series will go dead. www.ti.com/lit/an/slva325/slva325.pdf
here is some technical data on ballasting LEDs
here is a calculator

led.linear1.org/led.wiz

not all LED are equal colour of the LED also affects current of thedevice so it is best to balast each LED individually if you are using a large number. You can then calculate the total current draw from you power supply to enusre you do not try and draw more current than accessory power terminals are designed to provide.

regards Garth

One important thing to note: LEDs are DC devices. In order to run them from an AC power pack, you need to add a rectifier, such as a 1N4001 diode, in series with the LED to prevent damage from the reverse voltage.

Mark

Thanks Guys -- All Great Info. I think I am going to go with the peel and stick lights and add a extra Transformer. I already have a MRC Sound decoder coming off my Accessory connectors. I also have some antique street lights coming. all together I think I will have 8-10 lights. I will let you know how things work out. Thanks --- Ken