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Cutting Track, Rail Gap Filling and Isolating
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						11 years 3 months ago		 -  11 years 3 months ago		#17392
		by No4468
	
	
		
			
	
			
			 		
													
	
				Cutting Track, Rail Gap Filling and Isolating was created by No4468			
			
				Cutting track and filling gaps
Hi All,
I'm wondering how others lay and cut track, in particular flexitrack/flextrack and how you create power blocks. I'm planning to use non-balasted Marklin track.
Part of my planned layout will be DC and the outer track oval will be DCC.
I'm concerned that over time rails will slip and expand, thus closing the isolating gaps. Of particular concern is flexitrack on curves.
Do you:
1) Cut the rail/s to the desired length and then use conducting and isolating rail joiners/fishplates (Marklin 8594); and then lay?
2) Lay the track; join by soldering; cut the rail for the power blocks and then fill the gaps with a non-conductive filler?
If 2 is preferred:
A) What tool and cutting disk width is preferred; do you cut from the side or, top and bottom?
B ) What do you use as an insulating gap filler between the rails?
A) I have read to use a "fingernail trimming type of electric hand piece with .007 thick cutting disks to cut rail carefully"
www.zcentralstation.com/index.php/forum/19-z-scale-performance/16547-laying-flex-track#16625
Other recommendations include using a Dremel flex shaft and dental cup shaped cut off disks.
B ) Recommendations for gap fillers include: white wood glue, credit cards, thin balsa wood, plastic, Faller Expert cement, styrene, etc.
Most people file these down and then weather them to make them look aesthetically pleasing.
This all sounds fine for larger scales but I'm not sure how practical this is in Z scale/Z gauge?
I'm based in the UK so materials available in the UK would be most useful.
Many thanks in advance,
Paul
					Hi All,
I'm wondering how others lay and cut track, in particular flexitrack/flextrack and how you create power blocks. I'm planning to use non-balasted Marklin track.
Part of my planned layout will be DC and the outer track oval will be DCC.
I'm concerned that over time rails will slip and expand, thus closing the isolating gaps. Of particular concern is flexitrack on curves.
Do you:
1) Cut the rail/s to the desired length and then use conducting and isolating rail joiners/fishplates (Marklin 8594); and then lay?
2) Lay the track; join by soldering; cut the rail for the power blocks and then fill the gaps with a non-conductive filler?
If 2 is preferred:
A) What tool and cutting disk width is preferred; do you cut from the side or, top and bottom?
B ) What do you use as an insulating gap filler between the rails?
A) I have read to use a "fingernail trimming type of electric hand piece with .007 thick cutting disks to cut rail carefully"
www.zcentralstation.com/index.php/forum/19-z-scale-performance/16547-laying-flex-track#16625
Other recommendations include using a Dremel flex shaft and dental cup shaped cut off disks.
B ) Recommendations for gap fillers include: white wood glue, credit cards, thin balsa wood, plastic, Faller Expert cement, styrene, etc.
Most people file these down and then weather them to make them look aesthetically pleasing.
This all sounds fine for larger scales but I'm not sure how practical this is in Z scale/Z gauge?
I'm based in the UK so materials available in the UK would be most useful.
Many thanks in advance,
Paul
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						11 years 3 months ago				#17393
		by markm
	
	
		
			
	
	
			 		
													
	
				Replied by markm on topic Cutting Track, Rail Gap Filling and Isolating			
			
				Paul,
Welcome to the group.
At one time or another, I've used all the methods you've asked about. For cutting rails I personally like using flush-cut pliers. These leave one side of the cut smooth. They're also sold on-line and in hobby shops as rail cutters. They really don't work well once you lay the track.
The Dremel tool works the best once track is laid and on sectional pieces which hold the rails more securely than the flex. I like using the cutting disks, but it's more a matter of personal preference. I tend to avoid using a Dremel cutter only because it runs away from me too easily.
As far as insulating the gaps, I've found that on sectional track an air gap is generally all that's needed. I like using the insulated rail joiners, but it you have a number of gaps, they get expensive and of course they really only work between sections. Otherwise, I'll use a piece of styrene CA'ed and filed down to close the gaps.
I'm not a big fan of soldering all the rail joiners. You do get some flex and expansion of the layout substrate and I've had track twist. Instead I like to use a number of power connections to the track, every 2-3 feet, rather than rely on the electrical connection of the joiners. I'll solder joiners in places we I think there is stress on the rails, like entering into curves.
Hope this helps,
mark
					Welcome to the group.
At one time or another, I've used all the methods you've asked about. For cutting rails I personally like using flush-cut pliers. These leave one side of the cut smooth. They're also sold on-line and in hobby shops as rail cutters. They really don't work well once you lay the track.
The Dremel tool works the best once track is laid and on sectional pieces which hold the rails more securely than the flex. I like using the cutting disks, but it's more a matter of personal preference. I tend to avoid using a Dremel cutter only because it runs away from me too easily.
As far as insulating the gaps, I've found that on sectional track an air gap is generally all that's needed. I like using the insulated rail joiners, but it you have a number of gaps, they get expensive and of course they really only work between sections. Otherwise, I'll use a piece of styrene CA'ed and filed down to close the gaps.
I'm not a big fan of soldering all the rail joiners. You do get some flex and expansion of the layout substrate and I've had track twist. Instead I like to use a number of power connections to the track, every 2-3 feet, rather than rely on the electrical connection of the joiners. I'll solder joiners in places we I think there is stress on the rails, like entering into curves.
Hope this helps,
mark
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						11 years 3 months ago				#17394
		by No4468
	
	
		
			
	
			
			 		
													
	
				Replied by No4468 on topic Cutting Track, Rail Gap Filling and Isolating			
			
				Hi Mark,
Thank you for the welcome. Great to be here and the knowledge is astounding.
Many thanks for taking the time to respond comprehensively.
I was wondering what CA is? I see it referred to a lot here. I live in the UK so not familiar with the term.
Paul
					Thank you for the welcome. Great to be here and the knowledge is astounding.
Many thanks for taking the time to respond comprehensively.
I was wondering what CA is? I see it referred to a lot here. I live in the UK so not familiar with the term.
Paul
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						11 years 3 months ago				#17395
		by markm
	
	
		
			
	
	
			 		
													
	
				Replied by markm on topic Cutting Track, Rail Gap Filling and Isolating			
			
				Paul,
CyanoAcrylate glue, Crazy Glue for the common man. Since most of use can't remember how to spell it and have to look it up (as I just did) we usually just call it CA.
Mark
					CyanoAcrylate glue, Crazy Glue for the common man. Since most of use can't remember how to spell it and have to look it up (as I just did) we usually just call it CA.
Mark
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						11 years 3 months ago				#17397
		by Minuteman
	
	
		
			
	
	
			 		
													
	
				Replied by Minuteman on topic Cutting Track, Rail Gap Filling and Isolating			
			
				Hi Paul
Super Glue from WH Smith is one UK brand of cyanoacrylate.
cheers
Adrian
					Super Glue from WH Smith is one UK brand of cyanoacrylate.
cheers
Adrian
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