What are you building now?

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What are you building now?

I have been working on 2 modules that will connect my z mod modules to the Midwezt Haulerz z bend modules. I am hoping to put a passenger platform on the actual conversoin module(see Passing grade topic). This module will baloon in 2 directions; a z mod 180 baloon and a 180 z bend baloon in the other direction. I am hoping to elevate the passenger platform over the z bend loops. If I can't do that, I will make it a mine head. Sketches are posted on the Midwezt Haulerz web page.

The second module is a 4' Z mod module with a large bridge and river gorge. I haven't worked with water before. This will be something new for me. I'm going to try the majic water product. If any one has tips on pouring water I would welcome them.

I would also appreciate suggestions on pouring magic water.

Ondrej, I have used Magic Water, Woodland Scenics Realistic Water, and E-Z Water. I have not used nor do I care to use resins and their derivatives. I'm not a big fan of Magic Water. I do not like the finished "look". Too smooth for me. I'm not keen on making ripples and water effects with Magic Water. I like WS Realistic Water. Simply pour wait over night and there you are. WS advertises one pour and your done. Actually, you may have to make 2-4 pours to get it right. The thing I like is that the water doesn't end up looking smooth like a mirror. I has it's own more realistic look to me. E-Z Water is good as well. You have to heat it in a pop can and pour while hot using pliers, but the overall "look" is something between Magic Water and Realistic Water. The draw back with E-Z Water is there is a bit of yellow tint that kind of bugs me. So I'm a confirmed user of WS Realistic Water. It is simple to use. Fun to play with. I also used WS Water Effects. Good for waterfalls, rapids that sort of thing. Also, remember that water has NO color. Mud will make it brown, blue sky will make it blue, gray sky makes it gray. WS Realistic Water is clear. When poured it will take on surrounding colors just like realistic water!!
Also as a side note. I have sort of given up painting the bottoms of my rivers, streams and ponds. I have been pouring ground foams and rocks in the bottoms just like real life. I think it gives a more natural and less artificial look to the streams and rivers. Ponds seem to look deeper using ground foams. Dark in the middle, lighter toward the edges. Hope this helps. Cheers, Jim CCRR:)

With any "water" product, make sure the area is 100% sealed as it is amazingly viscous and will find the smallest holes. It also levels extremely well so make sure you want that near mirror flat look, otherwise, you need to pay attention while it is curing so you can pull or move it with sticks, tongue depressors, etc. to keep small variations in it. If you want wind ripple, etc. most of that is added on as a second coat using Matte Medium (any art supply place). Jim, this is what you put on to take away the gloss !

NOTE: as seemingly high viscousity (thick) as all of these products seem, they will capillary (draw themselves) up into ANY porous surrounding surfaces !!! Make sure you seal ALL the surfaces with acrylic paints. Rocks in the water will have water all over theme as it draws up onto it. Scenery to the edge of the water will adsorb (and darken) the scenery. Grasses in the water will be drawn together like a flower closing at night. So test pour off the module in a similar created area to learn. And like Jim says, they are not for deep pours. They are literally glass thin. If you don't want 'clear', even if you paint shade (color variations) under the water surface, then overcoat (2nd coat) of Matte medium or find the correct color additive to "cloud" the water (make it murcky). I found that the recommended RIT dye for the Woodland Scenics Realistic water settled out to the bottom, leaving the near clear upper part.

Lots of stuff works, just try it first. Do a larger second coat over it !!! DON'T POUR ALL OF IT AT ONCE, until you learn and know the results.

Jeff

Hi Jeff, So matte medium is the trick? Good to know. I have some, but haven't really figured out how to us it. Do you just brush it on? Cheers, Jim CCRR:unsure:

Ah I see. It was EZ water we have. I like how it works except when it melts the foam
I like the yellowish color, too. Anyways, good stuff.

Ondrej, E-Z Water shouldn't melt the foam if it is poured onto plaster cloth over the foam. If, for some reason, you must pour it on foam let it cool for about 1 minute. Cheers, Jim CCRR:)

Socalz44 wrote:

Ondrej, I have used Magic Water, Woodland Scenics Realistic Water, and E-Z Water. I have not used nor do I care to use resins and their derivatives. I'm not a big fan of Magic Water. I do not like the finished "look". Too smooth for me. I'm not keen on making ripples and water effects with Magic Water. I like WS Realistic Water. Simply pour wait over night and there you are. WS advertises one pour and your done. Actually, you may have to make 2-4 pours to get it right. The thing I like is that the water doesn't end up looking smooth like a mirror. I has it's own more realistic look to me. E-Z Water is good as well. You have to heat it in a pop can and pour while hot using pliers, but the overall "look" is something between Magic Water and Realistic Water. The draw back with E-Z Water is there is a bit of yellow tint that kind of bugs me. So I'm a confirmed user of WS Realistic Water. [snip] Cheers, Jim CCRR:)

You tear your layouts apart so fast you are missing one thing. Pour two small ponds - one of Magic Water and one of WS materials. Let them sit on the windowsill for about a year and then give us an opinion. WS often gets blisters and gets very cruddy looking. Magic Water retains it's gloss. As usual, a personal opinion. ...don:dry:

Don, No way. One year and the layout has to go! I'll stick with Woodland Scenics water products. Cheers, Jim CCRRB)

So what about Envirotex? It's cristal clear, no yellowing. If you want to make an extremely peaceful, smooth, super glossy water, just leave it alone. If you need waves, pour a final thin layer on the top, then hold your heat gun in one hand and an airbrush blowing air in the other. Any water surface can be acheeved without loosing the sheen. Stick in the vegetation, rocks, floating objects just before hardening, so no water run ups. To make an almost perfectly sealed bed for water, use Bondo. Small or bigger leak? Duct tape.

Lajos:)

Nothing wrong with envirotex. The original question was about Magic Water. Jim CCRR

OK, so what Woodland Scenics is doing about the original question?

Lajos

Like I normally do, I gave a comment and a comparison with other products to a relatively new modeler. I didn't say which one was better just my opinions. You simply mentioned a product which added nothing to helping out this person. Taking an additional two minutes to explain how or why he might have chosen envirotex would have been nice. Therefore, my comment. Jim CCRR

I have been day dreaming about a "skyscraper" wye module with a freeway. I have done a lot of skyscraper research using google sketch.

that sounds pretty sweet. Lots of places like that in Europe and the States.

Actually, reading Lajos' post. He did take two extra minutes. I apologize. Cheers, Jim CCRR

Yeah, I have been printing paper skyscrapers in hopes they would look good but they end up looking like paper skyscrapers.

Brad- I'm building a city- what is your skyscrapper sources for printing
Fred

I need to take some pictures of the skyscraper Alinda is building!