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ZCS Shoutbox

rvn2001 - Sun 17 Mar - 10:40

Happy St. Patrick's Day

ZFRANK - Thu 3 Jan - 12:39

Happy New Year!

rvn2001 - Tue 1 Jan - 00:45

Yappy Hew Near ..... er ...... HAPPY NEW YEAR!!

soccrdad30 - Wed 26 Dec - 21:13

Merry Christmas and Happy New Year everyone

rvn2001 - Tue 25 Dec - 05:59


stonysmith - Sun 7 Oct - 19:20

@ZOPTIONS - welcome!There's a good number of folks here who can help.One of the best resources it to come to chat at 9:00pm EDT almost any day

ZOPTIONS - Sun 7 Oct - 11:50

Greetings to all! Coming from Lionel O scale - "sizing down" if you will. Have a lot of trouble trying to determine the "best" products for constructing sidewalks AND structure bases? GM

rvn2001 - Thu 27 Sep - 11:16

You just need to sand the bottom of the plow a little.

jdo - Thu 27 Sep - 08:02

Is anyone having problems with the new MTL SD-40S plow hanging up on switches ETC.?

stonysmith - Wed 19 Sep - 09:56

Make sure you click on the image first so that you get the full size image. The image is properly 11105x450 and if printed at 300dpi will be the correct size.

mohican - Mon 17 Sep - 16:45

who creates the container freight pics? It would be nice if they were created using an adobe file instead of a jpg rendering. The details are too far blurred to make a decent model

mohican - Mon 17 Sep - 16:29

I'm thinking it should be more like 330 ohms which would make a direct short pass 2.7 milliamps and draw only 1/4 watt of power

mohican - Mon 17 Sep - 16:26

The Z Maker SW1200 kit says the he used a 33Kohm resistor in series with the motor but that would make the current passed through the resistor at .02 milliamps if the resistor were directly shorted

mohican - Mon 17 Sep - 16:20

does anyone know what value resistor is in the voltage reducer cable for rokuhan mini motors?

clubzscale - Wed 12 Sep - 20:36

Okay I’m back in... thanx Stony everything all better now. Log in reset successful.

rvn2001 - Mon 3 Sep - 21:19

Good to see you back, Bruce.

umchappy08 - Mon 3 Sep - 17:37

Been out of the ZCS for quite a while, but coming back. Been running Z though. Hope to get reconnected with you all. Enjoyed showing in NTS 2018.

DAZed - Mon 20 Aug - 01:33

Here are my NTS photos. NTS Photos

ejshelton - Sun 19 Aug - 13:01

I missed that....

rvn2001 - Sun 19 Aug - 12:59

You can see me walking behind Chad. I must have been working a wreck...

ejshelton - Sun 19 Aug - 12:39

I enjoyed the video......but one mystery. You're seat was empty.....I thought you never left that spot all three days......lol

circusbuilder - Sat 18 Aug - 13:09

Still alive. After nts 17 I was a little in the dumps. Nice to see 18 a better showing.

southernnscale - Fri 17 Aug - 20:38

Thanks for sharing the 2018NTS. I was watching model railroad 2018 video and they didn't show any of the Z scale. They even had Atlas there and not a word was said about the new flex track!

rvn2001 - Fri 17 Aug - 20:08

Here's a link to a video with our modules. Our modules appear at minute 25:12https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WRASkyDmO3c

carlb - Fri 17 Aug - 19:45

Just responding to an email that I haven't logged in for awhile.I'm still interested in Z scale model trains, so just checking in to say, don't cancel my membership!

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NHRS 1884-03-22 Ferrocarril Central Mexicano (FCP) Railroad begins service between Mexico City and Paso del Norte (Ciudad Juarez), Chihuahua, across the Rio Grande from El Paso, Texas.
NHRS 1897-03-22 In the Trans-Missouri Freight case, the US Supreme Court rules that railroads are subject to the provisions of the Sherman anti-trust act.
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NHRS 1952-03-22 The sixteen-foot statue of Mercury atop Nashville Union Station plunges to the ground during a violent storm.
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NHRS 1970-03-22 The CB&Q, D&RGW and WP railroads' California Zephyr on its last run, arrives in Oakland, CA from Chicago, Illinois; however the train name will soon be resurrected by Amtrak on a train travelling almost the same route as the original
NHRS 1970-03-22 The last California Zephyr arrives in Oakland.
ColinCRP 1985-03-22 Toronto Transit Commission opens the Scarborough rapid transit line using linear induction technology.
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Stony's LCL Cement Canisters

Detailing Stony's LCL Cement Canisters Here is a photo of the cement canisters in their raw form. I cut the sprue lengthwise, so the sprue will now act as a holder and a stand for painting, decaling, and sealing. A word of caution, the eyelets on top are very fragile. After breaking an eyelet, I used the barrels and sprue to 'handle' them. You will notice the size of them compared to a MTL caboose.


DSCF7837 Medium


 The next photo shows one set of canisters painted and decaled in the foreground, while the other set stil needs numbers and 'writing'.  On Ebay I watch for N-scale decal lots, either partial or whole, usually you can find a great deal.  Sometimes finding the right HO decals will work as well.  The same applies when I go to train shows, when a modeler is 'done' with their decals, I find I can find more uses for them in Z.  These LCL Cement Canisters were actually decaled using left-over Burlington Northern N-scale decal sheets.  I used the tiny writing for the canister messages while using 5-digit number sets to label the canister.  There are a few things that stand out from the proto are the numbers on the proto canisters are Railroad Roman style font, and that there should be more 'writing' on the sides of the canisters.  Other than the two items I have mentioned, I think they turned out great.  The shown BN partial decal sheets I paid a few bucks for a bag load of them so decorating them was very cheap.

Before painting them, and after I seperated the halves, I gave the model a 70% Rubbing Alcohol bath and scrubbed them down with an old 'soft' toothebrush.  When dry, I used my Valspar Primer #65056 Red-Oxide 'rattle can' to spray paint them.  When the paint dried I then gave them a sealing coat of Rustoleum Matte Clear.  And after the sealing was dried is when I decaled them.


DSCF7840 Medium


Once the decals have been applied and dried, I then gave the canisters another coat of Rustoleum Matte Clear.  There again, you still can add more 'detail' decals to authenticate the protos, if you wished too.  The next photo shows a custom decorated Soo Line 50' gondola with a load of canisters, while the other set is in the open.


DSCF8006 Medium


The canisters really did not turn out that bad, bare without any weathering agents.  I plan to add spilled cement dust to a set, and I will post more photos of that process.  Basically I have a set of artist chalks that I sand down to get to dust form to apply with a brush, but this might be different... I may try a different technique to apply the spilled cement dust.  Below you will find a few proto photos of the LCL Cement Canisters to help compare your work.




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Under $15 Turntable

Under $15 Turntable

By Jim O’Connell

May 2008


Most important is the 64oz Big Gulp cup. Next is the little plastic 'stay fresh' can top. I recommend purchasing the Roundhouse brand N Scale Gondola. Buy two @$2.99 each. You will need a dowel to make the turntable turn. You will need some MTL flex track. You will need a piece of styrene 1/4' wide and about 1/32' thick. Any hobby shop has these. You will also need some wood strips the same measurements. I use wood for the walkways because they weather better than the styrene. Some dull black paint, a brush, and something to weather the wood walkways is needed. CA glue if you are in a hurry, plastic model glue if you can wait over night. The cardboard simulates a piece of plywood for the floor of the turntable.



After the gondola arrives in the mail (most LHS', don't carry Roundhouse gondolas) cut the gondola in half and file the bottom of the pieces smooth. You will use the BOTTOM of the gondolas. The Big Gulp cup is 4 1/4" in diameter, this gives you a 110 Z scale foot turntable.



Cut the top of the Big Gulp cup off the cup. Trim it down so that the turntable, which rests on the 'stay fresh lid' is level with the top of the BG cup. I cut out the middle section of the 'stay fresh lid' it looks nicer. These lids are best from the tops of those Frosting cans found in the cake section of your local grocery store.




This photo shows all the bits used to make the turntable. Two pieces of wood, a piece of track, a piece of plastic to widen the gondola. Paint and glue.



This is the hardest part of this project. You can use a screw through the turntable into the dowel. You can glue them together. Or you can build a dowel receptacle beneath the turntable. Remember that the dowel must also be centred and be aligned beneath the layout so the dowel will not sway.



I build this. If you do it this way you also have come up with a way for the dowel not slide out onto the floor. I used a couple of screws into the dowel above the lower aligning hole beneath the layout.



When you are done this should be your result. Total assembly time about 20 minutes! If you can keep your wits about you. :-D


Under 15 dollar turntable how to was written by Jim O’Connell in May 2008. This article has been assembled in order by the following links. Simply cut and paste the following links into your web browser to follow up on any additional comments, suggestions, or to view the larger images.













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Hopper Weathering Clinc II

Hopper Weathering Clinic II
By Bill Mock
December 2009
bn hoppers_5_2_1_thumb

So here's how those BN Hoppers turned out after the surface rust dried. Not bad. I'll see if they need another wash. Maybe I'll just chalk them. But I now need to add some spots of rust; some random and some at the ladder, etc.

bn hoppers_5_2_1


bn hoppers_5_2_2


OK, it's after working hours, time to add some surface rust. So I start off by wetting the entire surface with "blue" windshield washing fluid. Then I mix a very diluted wash of Raw Umber acrylic paint and more blue windshield washing fluid. I wash this on to the surface and let it pool in the edges and build up. Then, walk away. Check back to make sure that the wet surface is drying evenly. If the wash dries unevenly and edges start to form, dab your brush in a little plain blue washing fluid. Dry the brush on a paper towel. Then with the now damp brush, lightly brush over the unwanted paint edge. If caught early, it should dissolve this "edge" and leave a nice even wash again. This method is very similar to watercolour painting techniques. Check back tomorrow for photos of the Hoppers when they are dry.

bn hoppers_5_2_3



bn hoppers_5_2_4

Hopper Weathering Clinic II how to was written by Bill Mock in December 2009. This article has been assembled in order by the following links. Simply cut and paste the following links into your web browser to follow up on any additional comments, suggestions, or to view the larger images.







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Hopper Weathering Clinic III

Hopper Weathering Clinic III
By Bill Mock
January 2010

OK, I gave the inside of these hoppers a wash of Engine Black below the coal line. They look pretty good. At least they no longer look like raw plastic. Why am I weathering the inside of these hoppers? I don't know. You can see some of this surface above the Hay Brothers Coal Load. So that good. But who knows? Some day I may try to add some cross bracing and attempt to run these hoppers empty. May be it's just a Z-Scale - Zen thing.  inside the_bn_hoppers_3_1


 OK, time to go inside those hoppers! They get the same treatment, an acrylic rust wash. But this time, it's a wash of Grimy Black, Rust and a hint of Flat Aluminium. I used a cotton swab and "blue windshield washing fluid" to really scrub the inside of the plastic shell; to make sure that the paint-wash covers evenly. It looks awful to have the wash "bead up" around a bit of residual casting release oil. So scrub it down and then wash on the paint - all sides at once. Then let it dry, sitting on it's wheels. The paint wash gently washes down the side walls in a very realistic pattern. Let the first coat dry and then come back later to see if any additional paint washes are necessary. I'll probably add a wash of "Engine Black" below the line where the loaded coal sits and grinds into the side walls.


inside the_bn_hoppers_3_2


inside the_bn_hoppers_3_3

Hopper Weathering Clinic III how to was written by Bill Mock in January 2010. This article has been assembled in order by the following links. Simply cut and paste the following links into your web browser to follow up on any additional comments, suggestions, or to view the larger images.




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Hopper Weathering Clinic

Hopper Weathering Clinic
By Bill Mock
December 2009
bn hoppers_1_1_thumb

Here is the first stages of weathering of my new BN Open Hoppers and UP PS2 Hopper. The trucks and wheels were removed and painted with a wash of Poly Scale Oily Black and Rust. The car bodies were airbrushed with a 10:1 wash of Poly Scale Reefer White and Earth to fade them. Then the bottoms were airbrushed with a 10:1 wash of Poly Scale Oily Black. I use plain old "blue" windshield washing fluid as an airbrush thinner for faster paint drying. The next step for these cars is a brushed on "surface rust" wash of a Raw Umber acrylic paint.

bn hoppers_1_1


bn hoppers_1_2


up ps2_hopper_1_3


Hopper Weathering Clinic how to was written by Bill Mock in December 2009. This article has been assembled in order by the following links. Simply cut and paste the following links into your web browser to follow up on any additional comments, suggestions, or to view the larger images.





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